haircut advice · salon tips
Haircut Terms Explained: APlain-English Glossary
Haircut terms explained in plain English, from point cutting and graduation to tapers, disconnection, and toner, so you can understand your stylist and be understood.
Hairover Team
Salon language can be confusing, and misunderstanding one word can cost you three inches. Here are the terms you are most likely to hear, in plain English. If you only learn a few, make them layers, graduation, taper, and blend.
Cutting techniques
Layers. Hair cut to different lengths, which adds movement. Layers can be subtle or dramatic. See regular layers vs. a butterfly cut.
Blunt cut. All the ends are cut to one clean line. It makes hair look thicker.
Graduation. Layers stacked closely, usually at the back, to build volume, as in an inverted bob.
Point cutting. Cutting into the ends with the tips of the scissors, to soften a line.
Slide cutting. Gliding open scissors down the hair to remove weight and create movement.
Razor cutting. Using a razor for soft, feathered ends. It can make fine or frizz-prone hair look wispy, so ask about it first.
Texturizing. Removing bulk to add separation and movement.
Thinning shears. Scissors with teeth that remove weight without changing length.
Internal layers. Hidden layers underneath that remove weight while the surface looks smooth.
Disconnection. A deliberate, sudden jump in length, as with an undercut.
Parts of the head
Crown. The top back of your head, where hair often swirls.
Nape. The back of your neck.
Parietal ridge. The point where your head starts to curve up toward the top.
Occipital bone. The bump at the lower back of your head. Barbers often use it as a landmark for fades.
Perimeter. The outer edge of the cut.
Weight line. The point where a cut holds the most bulk.
Barber terms
Fade. Hair blends down to the skin or very close. See low, mid, and high fades.
Taper. Hair gets gradually shorter, usually without going all the way to skin. See fade vs. taper.
Guard. The number on a clipper attachment. Higher is longer. See our clipper guard chart.
Line-up, edge-up, or shape-up. A crisp line around the hairline.
Blocked neckline. A squared-off edge at the nape.
Natural or tapered neckline. Follows your hairline and grows out best.
Scissor over comb. Cutting using a comb as a guide, for a softer finish.
Color terms
Balayage. Hand-painted color. See balayage vs. ombré.
Highlights and lowlights. Strands lighter or darker than your base. See highlights vs. lowlights.
Toner and gloss. Products that adjust tone or add shine. See hair gloss vs. toner.
Developer. The product that activates color or lightener.
Lift. How many shades lighter hair is taken.
Level. A number showing how light or dark a color is.
Texture terms
Density. How many hairs you have. See our density guide.
Porosity. How easily hair takes in water. See the hair porosity guide.
Shrinkage. How much shorter curls look when dry.
Curl pattern. The shape of your strands, from 1A to 4C. See the hair type chart.
Words that often go wrong
“A trim.” To you, half an inch, and to someone else, two inches. Show the length with your fingers.
“Layers.” Say where they start, as in “from my chin.”
“Thin it out.” Could mean removing bulk or taking away length. Say which one you want.
“Shorter on the sides.” Ask how short, using numbers or a photo.
Related guides
- Men’s Haircut Names: A List of 30 Popular Styles
- What to Tell Your Hairstylist to Get the Cut You Want
A picture beats any glossary
A photo removes most of the guesswork from these terms. Upload a clear photo to Hairover, get a hair analysis, and try hairstyles on your own face in Style Studio, then show your stylist what you mean.
FAQ
What does layered hair mean?
Layers mean the hair is cut at different lengths rather than all to one length. This adds movement and can remove weight or add volume, depending on where the layers are placed.
What does texturizing mean?
It means cutting into the ends or the body of the hair to remove bulk and add separation. It can be done with scissors, thinning shears, or a razor.
What is the difference between a trim and a cut?
A trim keeps your current shape and removes a small amount. A cut changes the shape or length. Because trim means different things to different people, it helps to show the length with your fingers.
