hair care · curly hair
Starter Locs: Methods, Stages, and Whatto Expect
A guide to starter locs: comb coils, two-strand twists, and interlocking, what the early stages look like, how to wash them, and how to protect your hairline.
Hairover Team
Starter locs are the first stage of locs, when hair has been sectioned and set with comb coils, two-strand twists, or interlocking, but hasn’t yet matted into mature locs. The method you choose shapes how your locs look for years, so it’s worth picking carefully. Expect frizz, some unraveling, and an awkward stage. That’s normal.
This is a general guide. A loctitian who knows your hair type is the best person to plan your locs with you.
The main methods
| Method | How it’s done | Best for | Look |
|---|---|---|---|
| Comb coils | Each section coiled with a fine comb | Short, tightly coiled hair | Neat, cylindrical |
| Two-strand twists | Each section twisted in two | Longer hair | Fuller, textured |
| Interlocking | Ends pulled through the root with a tool | Most textures, active lifestyles | Tight, neat roots |
| Braids | Small braids left to lock | Looser textures | Pattern may show at first |
| Freeform | Hair left to lock without sectioning | Any | Organic, uneven |
Choosing your size
Section size sets how thick your locs will be.
- Small: more versatile for styling, but take longer to install and can thin out if your hair is fine.
- Medium: the most common choice. A good balance.
- Large: quicker to install and lower maintenance, with a bolder look.
Your hair’s density matters here. See our hair density test.
The stages
- Starter: coils or twists look neat but can unravel easily.
- Budding: small knots form inside each loc. They look puffy and frizzy.
- Teen: locs swell, frizz, and may stick out in different directions. The awkward stage.
- Mature: locs settle, drop in length, and hold their shape.
- Rooted: fully formed, and they keep growing.
Washing starter locs
- Many loctitians suggest waiting a couple of weeks before the first wash, to let them set.
- Use a residue-free shampoo so build-up doesn’t get trapped inside.
- Wear a stocking cap or mesh cap while washing to stop them unraveling.
- Squeeze the water out gently, then dry them fully. Locs that stay damp can develop a musty smell.
Protecting your hairline
Retwisting or interlocking too tightly, or too often, puts tension on the roots. The American Academy of Dermatology lists locs among the styles that can cause traction alopecia when they’re too tight. Its advice includes:
- If it hurts, it’s too tight. Ask for it to be loosened.
- Choose thicker locs and avoid very heavy, long locs that pull.
- Watch for broken hairs around your forehead or a receding hairline.
If you see those signs, see a dermatologist early. Our 4C hair guide has more on gentle care for tightly coiled hair.
Retwisting
- How often: every four to eight weeks for most people. Retwisting more often can thin the roots.
- At home or salon: a loctitian sets your pattern. Many people learn to retwist at home after that.
Related guides
See locs on your face first
Locs are a long-term commitment. Hairover lets you upload a clear photo, get a hair analysis, and try hairstyles on your own face in Style Studio, so you can get a sense of length and shape before you start.
FAQ
What are starter locs?
The first stage of locs, when hair has been sectioned and coiled, twisted, or interlocked, but hasn't yet matted together into mature locs.
Which starter loc method is best?
It depends on your hair. Comb coils suit shorter, tightly coiled hair. Two-strand twists suit longer hair and give a fuller look. Interlocking holds well and handles washing better, but can feel tight if done too often.
Can you wash starter locs?
Yes, but gently. Many loctitians suggest waiting a couple of weeks, then washing with a residue-free shampoo, often with a stocking cap over the locs to stop them unraveling.
How long until starter locs mature?
It varies widely by hair texture and method, often many months to a couple of years. Tighter coils usually lock faster than looser curls.
