curly hair · hair care
The Curly Girl Method: A SimpleBeginner's Guide
A plain-English guide to the curly girl method: the basic steps, which products people avoid and why, a simple wash-day routine, and what to expect in the first weeks.
Hairover Team
The curly girl method is a routine for curly and wavy hair that focuses on moisture and gentle handling. It was popularized by stylist Lorraine Massey’s book Curly Girl. The basics: wash with a gentle, sulfate-free cleanser or a cleansing conditioner, condition generously, apply styling products to soaking-wet hair, avoid brushing dry hair, and dry it without rubbing. You don’t have to follow every rule to see a difference.
The core steps
- Cleanse gently. A sulfate-free shampoo or a cleansing conditioner (“co-wash”). Many people cleanse less often than people with straight hair.
- Condition. Use plenty of conditioner and detangle with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb while it’s in.
- Style on soaking-wet hair. Apply a leave-in, curl cream, or gel while hair is dripping.
- Scrunch. Cup your curls and squeeze them upward.
- Dry gently. Use a T-shirt or microfiber towel, not a terry towel. See how to plop curly hair.
- Air-dry or diffuse. See how to use a diffuser.
- Scrunch out the crunch if you used gel, once fully dry.
What people avoid, and why
| Avoided | Reason given |
|---|---|
| Harsh sulfate shampoos | Can feel stripping and drying on curly hair |
| Non-water-soluble silicones | Can build up without sulfates to remove them |
| Brushing dry hair | Breaks up curl clumps and causes frizz |
| Rough towel drying | Causes frizz; the AAD also says rubbing hair dry can cause damage |
| High heat | Can disrupt the curl pattern |
These are the method’s guidelines, not hard rules. If a product works for your hair, it works.
A simple wash-day routine
- Gentle cleanse at the scalp.
- Condition, detangle with fingers.
- Rinse most of the conditioner out, leaving a little.
- Leave-in on soaking-wet hair.
- Gel or curl cream, scrunched in.
- Plop for 10 to 20 minutes.
- Air-dry or diffuse.
- Scrunch out the crunch.
What to expect
- The first wash days can feel heavy or frizzy as you find the right amounts.
- Adjust gradually. Change one product at a time so you know what made the difference.
- Wavy hair: use less product and lighter formulas.
- Fine curls: gel is often better than heavy creams.
The cut matters too
Even the best routine can’t fix a cut that fights your curls. A stylist who cuts curly hair dry can shape it to clump and fall well. See how to find a curly hair stylist and the hair type chart.
Related guides
See which curly cut suits you
Hairover lets you upload a clear photo, get a hair analysis of your texture, and try hairstyles on your own face in Style Studio.
FAQ
What is the curly girl method?
A routine for curly and wavy hair, popularized by stylist Lorraine Massey's book Curly Girl, that focuses on moisture and gentle handling. It typically means avoiding harsh sulfate shampoos, drying silicones, and brushing dry hair.
Do I have to follow every rule?
No. Many people use a relaxed version. Start with gentle cleansing, conditioner, a styling product on wet hair, and no dry brushing, and see what your hair needs.
How long does the curly girl method take to work?
Many people see a difference after a few wash days, but it can take several weeks to find the right products and technique for your hair.
Does the curly girl method work for wavy hair?
Often, yes. Wavy hair is easily weighed down, so use lighter products and less of them.
