hair color · hair care
How to Fix Brassy Hair: Purple vs. Blue Shampooand Toner
How to fix brassy hair: why lightened hair turns yellow or orange, when to use purple vs. blue shampoo, how toner and gloss help, and how to stop brass coming back.
Hairover Team
To fix brassy hair, use the opposite color to cancel it out: purple shampoo neutralizes yellow tones on blonde hair, and blue shampoo neutralizes orange tones on lightened brown hair. For a stronger, more even fix, a salon toner or gloss lasts several weeks. Brass happens because lightening hair exposes warm pigments, which show through as the toner fades.
Why hair turns brassy
When hair is lightened, its darker pigment is removed first, leaving warm red, orange, and yellow tones behind. Toner covers those tones, but it fades with washing, sun, and heat. As it fades, the warmth shows through. The darker your starting color, the more orange tones you’ll see. See the hair color levels chart.
Purple vs. blue shampoo
| Brass color | Hair | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow | Blonde, platinum, silver, gray | Purple shampoo |
| Orange | Lightened brown, dark blonde, balayage | Blue shampoo |
| Red | Dark hair, very warm brunette | Green-based products |
The color wheel explains it: each color cancels the one opposite it.
How to use toning shampoo
- Wet your hair.
- Apply to the brassiest areas first.
- Leave for the time on the bottle, usually a few minutes.
- Rinse and condition. Toning shampoos can be drying.
- Use once or twice a week. Overuse can leave a lilac or blue tint on very light hair.
Toner and gloss
- Toner at the salon neutralizes brass evenly and lasts several weeks.
- Gloss adds shine and can correct tone at the same time.
See hair gloss vs. toner.
Keeping brass away
- Wash less often and with lukewarm water.
- Use color-safe shampoo between toning washes.
- Use heat protectant and keep heat lower. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends low or medium heat and a heat protectant.
- Protect hair from sun with a hat on long days outside.
- Book a toner between color appointments.
When to see a colorist
If your hair is very orange, uneven, or brassy right after lightening, a colorist can correct it with the right toner. That’s usually more effective than shampoo alone. See box dye vs. salon color.
Related guides
Try a cooler or warmer shade first
Hairover lets you upload a clear photo, get a hair analysis, and try hair colors on your own face in Style Studio, so you can compare an ash blonde with a golden one.
FAQ
Why does my hair turn brassy?
Lightening hair exposes warm underlying pigments. As toner fades with washing and sun, those warm yellow and orange tones show through.
Should I use purple or blue shampoo?
Purple shampoo cancels yellow tones, so it suits blonde and very light hair. Blue shampoo cancels orange tones, so it suits brown or dark blonde hair that's been lightened.
How often should I use purple shampoo?
Once or twice a week for most people. Used too often, it can leave a lilac tint on very light hair.
Can a toner fix brassy hair?
Yes. A salon toner or gloss neutralizes brassy tones more evenly than shampoo and lasts several weeks.
