braids · hair styling
Dutch Braid vs. French Braid: What'sthe Difference?
Dutch braid vs. French braid explained, with the one change in technique that separates them, step-by-step instructions, and which one suits your hair.
Hairover Team
Both braids add hair as you go. In a French braid, you cross strands over the middle, so the braid lies flat and blends into the head. In a Dutch braid, you cross them under, so it stands out on top of the hair, like a raised rope. That single change is the whole difference.
Side by side
| French braid | Dutch braid | |
|---|---|---|
| Strands cross | Over the middle | Under the middle |
| Look | Flat, smooth, inverted | Raised, stands out |
| Looks thicker | Less | More |
| Common name | Regular braid | Reverse or inside-out braid |
| Best for | Sleek, polished looks | Boxer braids, thin hair |
How to do a French braid
- Take a section at the top of your head and split it into three strands.
- Cross the right strand over the middle, then the left strand over the middle.
- Before each new cross, add a little hair from that side to the strand.
- Keep going until all your hair is included.
- Finish with a regular three-strand braid and tie it.
How to do a Dutch braid
Follow the same steps, except for one thing: cross each strand under the middle, not over it.
For extra thickness, gently pull at the outer loops once it is finished, working from the bottom upward.
Which one to choose
Choose French for a soft, smooth look at the office or a formal event, or when you don’t want your braid to take center stage.
Choose Dutch if your hair is fine, since it looks fuller. It also holds well at the gym, which is why our gym hairstyles guide recommends it. Two Dutch braids stay in place while you work out and look deliberate.
Tips that help with both
- Start with slightly dirty hair, or use a texture spray so strands grip.
- Keep the sections even, especially at the start.
- Don’t pull too tight at the hairline. Repeated tension can damage it.
- Sleek hair slips easily, so a little dry shampoo can give it grip.
- Layered hair pokes out, so a small amount of paste or a few pins can help.
Hair types
Both work on most textures. Curly and coily hair can be braided more easily when stretched or damp, and many people braid with a little leave-in. For extension styles, see box braids vs. knotless braids.
Related guides
- How to Braid Hair: A Beginner’s Guide to the Basic Braid
- How to Do a Fishtail Braid: Easy Steps for Beginners
Braids are only half of it
The cut underneath shapes how every style looks. Upload a clear photo to Hairover, get a hair analysis, and try hairstyles on your own face in Style Studio to see what else could work.
FAQ
Which braid is easier to learn?
Most people find French braids slightly more intuitive, since the over motion feels natural. Once you have learned one, the other takes only a small adjustment.
Which braid makes hair look thicker?
A Dutch braid. It sits on top of the hair and can be gently pulled apart at the edges, so it looks larger.
Can you braid short hair?
Yes, once it reaches around chin length, although layers may poke out. Short Dutch braids work well along the hairline or as a side accent.
